Chestnuts roasting on a Roman fire

One of my most vivid memories of my childhood in Italy is the smell of vendors selling warm chestnuts during wintertime. I guess the old song about chestnuts roasting on an open fire still rings true in Italy. To this day, you can wander the chilly winter streets of cities like Rome and buy a rolled up paper cone of warm chestnuts - a great little snack on a wintry day. Here is a picture of my cousin getting his fill on a cold November day in 2005...

Some great restaurants in Rome

This entry is about two months too late so you'll have to excuse me if my memory has faded a bit. Still, I made it a point to collect a few business cards when visiting restaurants in Rome. Here are a few that I would recommend and two that I wouldn't.

Colline Emiliane - Via Degli Avignonesi 22 - A 77 year old restaurant that serves up delicious cuisine from my hometown of Bologna and the region of Emilia Romagna. We visited for lunch with my aunt and a group of friends. Both my wife and I stuck with pasta for a main course and then I nibbled on my friend Gianfranco's beef with mostarda (not the mustard you and I know). All excellent. Located just off of Via dell Quattre Fontane and around the corner from Piazza Barberini. The place is small and we saw people turned away so reservations are recommended. 06 481 7538 or 06 48 02 80 70.

La Bottega Del Caffe - Piazza Madonna Dei Monti, 5 - Located in what was once the ancient Suburra of Rome in the Monti, La Bottega Del Caffe is perfectly located in one of the main piazze of the area. It's typically one of the busier spots in the neighborhood and offers up a nice selection of wines and a good mix of entrees. There's plenty of seating outside but you'll find that you need to get there early on a nice evening. Service was a bit surly when we were there. Still, my gnocchi absolutely hit the spot on a cooler day and the cheese platter made for an excellent starter. 393 931 1013

Dagnino - Galleria Esedra, Via V. Emanuele Orlando, 75 - Located inside the small 1950s era Galleria Esedra is Dagnino, a pasticceria and cafe' specializing in cuisine from Sicily. My grandfather used to come here on Sundays to pick up pastries. Anyway, we spent a lot of time here since it was located right across from The Grand Hotel. The desserts - like cassatina siciliana - were to die for. I really recommend the cassatina. You can also order wine, ice cream and more. There are a handful of seats inside but most people hang out in the "outdoor" seating area within the galleria. Depending on your waiter, service can be pleasant or relatively aloof. One of the waiters, Gennaro, pointed us in the right direction to an excellent pizzeria... "da Tito". 06 48 18 660

"Da Tito" - Via Venezia 21 - This small and busy pizzeria was a gem in the midst of an area relatively frequented by tourists. As mentioned, Gennare, our waiter at Dagnino recommended it and we're glad he did. Pizzas were reasonably priced and the house wine was relatively good. They did a nice job of accommodating us with the baby although it was a bit cramped. Definitely a place worth recommending. Just off of Via Nazionale on Via Venezia. 06 474 0832

Ristorante Tullio - Via S. Nicola da Tolentino, 26 - This Tuscan trattoria, first opened in 1950, came highly recommended by the Touring Club guide for Rome. Prices were listed as reasonable but I found that they were a bit high for what one received. The antipasto misto was a bit overboard for four people - way too much food - get half of what you think you need. Still, the carciofi alla romana were so tasty. I had tuna with beans - relatively straightforward and quite pricey for what I received. Is it a good place to eat? Yes. Is it a good value? I can think of plenty others. Located just up a side street from Piazza Barberini. 06 474 55 60

Trattoria Cadorna dal 1947 - Via Raffaele Cadorna, 12 - This trattoria is located on the back side of Piazza Sallustio, on a street parallel to Via 20 Settembre. This was the first restaurant we visited on our most recent trip to Rome and we found the service to be very friendly. The quickly brought us a high chair and were very helpful with the baby. We started with bresaola and then both ordered heaping portions of pasta. I'll admit that we were jetlagged and quite tired that night but the pasta really hit the spot and was a welcome way to return to Rome. Would gladly return on our next trip. 06 482 7061

La Matriciana - Via del Viminale, 14 - This is one of those classic Roman restaurants like Carbonara or La Capricciosa. The restaurant's specialty is, as you can imagine, bucatini alla matriciana. It's located across the rationalist-style Opera House of Rome. We had a very enjoyable lunch sitting outside on a gorgeous spring day. It was perfect. I started with rucola and tomato salad - very refreshing - and then had the bucatini. They were tasty, even if the sauce wasn't exactly to my expectations of amatriciana. Go figure. The house wine is recommended. 06 488 1775

...and now, ones I wouldn't recommend.

Life Ristorante Pizza & Wine Bar - Via Delle Vite, 28/30 - Located in the area around Via Condotti, the restaurant rakes in plenty of tourists. Indeed, it does have a nice modern atmosphere. The pizza selection looked to be very impressive but our pizza was a big disappointment. The mushrooms didn't seem to be cooked right and the pizza was very soggy. We ate it and dealt with it but wouldn't go back. Not what I look for when eating pizza in Italy.

Ristorante '34' or "Al '34" - Via Mario de' Fiori, 34 - Our friends were recommended this restaurant by their hotel. Admittedly, a great location, just a few steps from the Spanish Steps and on the cross-street of Via Mario de' Fiori. It does have a great location. The food was OK. The service was atrocious. None of the waiters were Italian and they treated most of the customers with contempt. When it started raining, the argued with us that it wasn't raining. Diners were packed like sardines, too, and the focus was to move us out. Cannot recommend it.

What We Learned in Italy

Each country you visit with a baby teaches you a little bit more about traveling with children. Having traveled to Huatulco with our baby, we had notched Mexico on our belt. Italy was our second international trip and we learned a few things along the way.

Restaurant Conveniences - High chairs are not as rare as one might think... at least not in Rome. We found that probably 80% of restaurants had a high chair. Note: that's high chair, not chairs. The varied in size from normal to rather large and without a safety bar. Still... chances are you might find one. You'll also find local waiters extremely accommodating. Foreign-born waiters did not seem to be as nice or willing to help but we only encountered this at one place, a rather run-of-the-mill tourist stop that I wouldn't recommend. As for changing tables? Not going to happen. We had to change the baby on miniscule bathroom counters, on chairs in the back of a restaurant (thank you to the owners of La Matriciana) and in other random locations (see the picture of my hard at work). Either prepare to let your baby sit in a soiled diaper or be open to creativity.

The Flight - A few simple revelations here. First and foremost, buy your child a seat for the flight. Yes, yes, I know... "but it's expensive!?" AND it's safer - much safer for your baby. Besides, your child will have an easier time sleeping in their seat and you can occasionally have two free hands. If you're worried about lugging a car seat, get yourself one of the items I mentioned in one of my previous entries. We used a Pac Back. Second, if you can, book a bulkhead seat. You'll end up with more legroom, no reclining seats in front of you and, if you're on a big plane, tons of space to play, as you can see...

Packing - Pack more than you need when it comes to basic supplies for the actual journey - diapers, formula, baby food, etc. and have a good stash in your carry-on bag. Better to have too much stuff in transit for your baby than not enough. Let's put it this way - you can't buy diapers or formula in Newark Airport while waiting for your connecting flight. Once you get to your destination, you can go to a local market and stock up. Our baby learned to love Plasmon baby food. Second, bring a couple of new toys for the baby. They'll keep them fascinated. You don't have to spend a mint... just find a couple of $5.00 toys and they'll be happy.

Making the Process Easier - Work as a team. I don't really know how else to put this but have each person focus on certain tasks, split the duties and keep your cool.

Basking in Luxury in Rome

...and we're back from Rome. It was a great trip and just the right length - 9 days. By that point, we were pretty much ready to head home and our baby boy had enough of the travel stroller and wanted to get back to his plush UPPAbaby. Granted, the McLaren Volo is a great travel stroller... light, folds easily and sturdy. It took a beating on the cobblestones of Rome and came out unscathed but I'm sure it gets old after a while.

So, I'll start with a quick hotel recommendation. One caveat, though... we were blessed to get an incredible rate via a family connection so don't think we could normally afford this place (I wish); however, if you have more money than you know what to do with and want to spend plenty of it for a luxurious stay, we would highly recommend the St. Regis Grand Hotel near Piazza Repubblica. It is worth every Euro.

Everything and I mean everything was outstanding. We had a spacious Imperial Room which had plenty of room for all of our stuff as well as a crib for the baby. The bed was a dream - soft and very comortable and the bathroom was cavernous, particularly by European standards. Service was impeccable and the staff at the Grand Bar, the doormen, the concierges and the maids all went way out of their way to make our stay enjoyable. Honestly, it was ideal. The hotel is well-deserving of it's inclusion on the 2007 Conde' Nast Gold List and its *****L rating.

Drowning in a Sea of Travel Guides for Rome

Finding a good travel guide can be a daunting task, particularly when you're planning on visiting a popular destination like London, Paris or Rome. Frommers, Fodor's, Rick Steve's, Insight Guides, AAA, Knopf, Michelin, Eyewitness Guides, Moon, Let's Go, Lonely Planet, Time Out, Baedeker... the list goes on and on. It's hard to make heads or tails from one guide to another.

Well, when it comes to Rome, I've gone through a few... having visited Rome close to ten times in the past 12-13 years, it's good to stay on top of what's new in town, new museums, etc. With so many to choose from, how do you know where to start? To begin with, I'm not a fan of Frommer's or Fodor's. Yes, they serve their purpose but, for me, I like to see some pictures. Show me what I'll be looking at - give me some visual perspective. Both guides typically fall short although I like their online presence. For my money, there are two that I have found particularly useful for Rome.

If you can find one - and you can find used ones on Amazon.com - one of the best guides out there is published by the Touring Club Italiano. Now, there may be current ones but the one I have is this older version. Well-written, good information, concise and it often lists places that most guides overlook. I really like this one. Of course, if you read Italian, you can pick up an Italian version but I know that only so many people have this luxury. If you're in Rome, check out the local Feltrinelli or Arnoldo Mondadori and you might find some Italian guides translated in English that will be worth your while. You never know...

Ever since buying my first Time Out guide for a trip to Buenos Aires, I've been nothing but impressed by Time Out's informative guides. Good insight on neighborhoods, hotels in all classes, restaurants and much more. They just work well and the one for Rome is no different. Recently published version also include Time Out Rome: Eating & Drinking Guide (wish I had a copy of this handy) and the Time Out Shortlist Rome. If the Eating & Drinking Guide is anything like the Cheap Eats in London guide, I would imagine it is priceless.

What are some of your favorites? Are you partial to funky little guides like the Wallpaper City Guide to Rome, big standards like the Eyewitness Guide to Rome or specialized guides like The Civilized Shopper's Guide to Rome? (my wife has this one... it's a great little pocket guide)

Travel Plans... what travel plans?

It's no secret that some consider me a bit crazy... yes, crazy in a variety of ways (sure, I'm kind of quirky) but definitely crazy for my family. I love my wife and my big boy and have found that as a new dad, my train of thinking has changed a bit, as well. Part of that has been the desire to protect them and ensure that I take care of their well-being. Of course, that can be manifested in a variety of ways. The most recent way had to do with our forthcoming trip to Argentina... or should I say, our recently cancelled trip to Argentina.

Now, wait a minute... didn't I recently cancel a trip to Rome to go to Argentina? Yes, I sure did. So, here's the crazy part... I've canceled our trip to Argentina to go to... well, Rome!? The reason, for me, is simple. The political situation in Argentina is starting to grow a bit dicey for me.
I might find it tolerable if I was traveling with just my wife but bringing a baby into the picture changes things.

You may have seen recent new stories about the 21 day protests that took place when Cristina Kirchner's government decided to increase taxes on various agricultural products. 21 days of largely peaceful protests across Argentina but protests and blockades that nonetheless led to food shortages in many markets in cities like Buenos Aires. Food shortages... OK, not good with a baby. Now, as I mentioned, the protests were largely peaceful, save for the ones attended by a certain Luis D'Elia who has become a kind of a two-fisted mouthpiece for the government. D'Elia is seen as a thug and the fact that he has been showing up and disrupting protests is not good. This was particularly the case the day after he was captured by the media punching a demonstrator during a rally. One day after breaking up a protest, there he was, standing next to Kirchner during a speech in which she denounced the protests taking place.

On April 2nd, the farmers decided to take a bit of a cooling off period for 30 days - a time when they could work with the government to negotiate some kind of a resolution. To date, the government has mostly thumbed their nose at the farmers and has now started suppressing free speech, going after the media (even government-friendly papers) and even confiscating truckloads of cattle from farmers. It seems like some of Argentina's ugly history is starting to resurface. Pity that a country with so so much going for it, with so many resources and wonderful people always gets stuck with terrible governments (albeit voted in by the people).

If you ask me, what's to say that the whole issue won't start back up? I'm not an alarmist but I'd rather go somewhere where I don't have to carry anxiety about the well-being of my family. Call me a chicken little... whatever... I'd just as soon not have to think about it and just head back to Italy. Yes, I'll have to suck it up and sell a kidney to pay for everything with Euros but, at the end of the day, I'll pick security and peace of mind over lower prices. Argentina will always be there and we will go back... just not in the coming months. Besides, while Italy has its own set of issues, it doesn't have this set of issues.

For us, it's back to Rome. In the meantime, read A Texan in Argentina's blog for more insight on the current situation...

Computer problems galore

I haven't disappeared... I'm just having all kinds of hardware issues. That's a real pain since I want to post an update on our most recent trip to Huatulco. It was outstanding - really liked it! Anyway, my new laptop is having keyboard issues which forces me to use my old laptop which doesn't want to stay connected to the wireless network. So, until a new keyboard arrives, I'm kind of hosed.

BUT... I won't leave you empty handed - I thought the following article on Rome's subway expansion from Travel and Leisure was fascinating. It paints a good picture of the challenges required to expand the subway system in a 2,500 year old city.

A Great Roman View

As you know, Rome is known for it's famed seven hills. Some visitors to Rome make it a point to visit each hill and see the city from above - the views can truly be spectacular. One of the most popular, for example, is the view from the Aventine Hill...

The view from the Aventine

Typically, it's really not that crowded since a majority of tourists tend to stick to the core of the center of town. In fact, the Aventine is a quiet area with several nice churches and a tranquil walkable neighborhood.

Another lesser known view is located smack dab in the middle of the city and is one of my favorites. Let's say it's a view that lets you focus on the details rather than admiring the big picture. It's easy to get to but most people don't know about it. My aunt told me about this view a couple of trips ago and it's was worth checking out.

Looking out over Trajan's Makets

The directions are easy. Head up the cordonata to the Piazza del Campidoglio. If you don't know what I'm referring to, any good guidebook can help - the Campidoglio is also referred to as the Capitoline hill. Once you're in the main piazza, walk towards the back of the piazza and to the left until you see a wide set of brick steps that lead up to a brick building. At the top of the steps, you'll want to enter the building on the far right... they'll be an open door that leads down a hallway. Follow that hallway, up some steps and eventually you'll pop outside.

Wintertime view towards the Colosseo

You can then find your way to a usually calm cafe' - an pricey but great spot for a morning cappuccino and cornetto or an afternoon tramezzino. All along the cafe is a nice open area with marble railings that provide excellent views of Trajan's Markets, Via dei Fori Imperiali and i Monti. Yes, you'll figure out that, for the most part, you're standing on Il Vittoriano but you wouldn't be mobbed by other tourists. We've stopped by there both in the dead of summer and early winter and both times, there were maybe a half-dozen other people. Just perfect.

My wife and aunt at the cafe'

Exploring Via Nomentana

One of my Italian aunts lives in an area of Rome just off of the Via Nomentana. It's an interesting area - a typical residential area, not like what most tourists see in the center of Rome - and it offers a little bit of everything for someone who has visited Rome before. Now, if you're going to Rome for the first time, I wouldn't bother with this area. However, if you've been a couple of times, hop on the #60 bus from Piazza Venezia to Via Nomentana for a different take on Rome.

So, what is there to see?

First off, there's Villa Torlonia. Now, the last time I visited the park around the villa, it was in sad shape. You could tell that the park was being spruced up but the main villa, designed by Valadier in the early 19th century, was falling apart. It was used by Mussolini during WWII and later occupied by the Allied command until 1947. An ambitious project restored the main villa and now both all the buildings and the charming park can be visited. Not to be missed is the odd little Casina delle Civette.

Close-up of the main villa before the restoration

Date palms by the entrance from Via Nomentana

Further up Via Nomentana are two of the oldest churches in Rome, the mausoleum of Santa Costanza and Sant'Agnese Fuori le Mura. The church was built in the 6th century over a series of 4th century catacombs. The churches are fascinating and are very peaceful. Most Roman tourists have no idea that these churches exist.

The basilica of Sant'Agnese Fuori le Mura

Plaques commemorating answered prayers

All around the Via Nomentana are interesting neighborhoods. I wouldn't go further north the Nomentana - it gradually gets worse. However, closer to the center as well as heading towards Piazza Bologna one can come across a blend of art nouveau villas, modern buildings, art deco and fascist era rationalistic buildings, embassies and more. You'll see a mix like the mid-century modern Jordanian embassy to the fortress-like Russian embassy. As mentioned, you'll also see a more typical Roman residential area and can stop in local stores, restaurants, supermarkets and the like. My favorite area supermarket is located on Via XXI Aprile, right in front of Mario De Renzi's famed Casa Federici. It's a great way to see what locals buy - great cheeses, local wines, pastries, fresh produce and much more.

A modern apartment building off of Via XXI Aprile

Speaking of Casa Federici, the area has countless examples of rationalistic architecture - much of it in the form of residential mid-rises. A few civic buildings are evident, too. Ridolfi's post office building on Piazza Bologna is a particularly famous example of rationalist architecture. In fact, for the architecture buff, there's much to see - byzantine mosaics, art nouveau curiosities and art deco design.

L'Accademia Della Guardia Di Finanzia - Typical Fascist-Era Rationalist Architecture

The Mid-Century Modern Jordanian Embassy

From what I know, the area has never been run down. However, you do see some signs of improvements taking place here and there. Clearly, you have what took place at Villa Torlonia - a wonderful project given how long the property languished. Across the Nomentana from the villa, you have another park that has gone a wonderful transformation. We found it particularly nice on a hot September afternoon when the heat was just too oppressive.

Across from Villa Torlonia

Also, on streets like Via C. Corvisieri, streetside markets have been cleaned up and moved to other parts of town. Now, you can make the case that these markets added to the character of the neighborhood and to have them removed sanitizes the area. I tend to agree although the area looks much nicer in the afternoon. Once the market closed, the streets were strewn with trash and discarded produce (visit Campo Dei Fiori in the afternoon for a living example of this phenomenon).

Still, I love the area... so much to see and very walkable. If you have the time, the area is definitely worth the cost of a bus ticket.

Piazza Della Repubblica in Rome

In many respects, you could say that Piazza Dell Repubblica is stunning and yet both blessed and hindered by it's location. It is a glamorous piazza that sits at the crossroad of what many would term a seedy neighborhood to the southeast and the epitome of the dolce vita to the northwest.

From ItalyGuides.it

The design of Piazza Della Repubblica, or Piazza Esedra, and the surrounding buildings is indeed stunning. I've always been attracted by the graceful curves of the buildings that hug the circular piazza. The fountain has a particular glow at night. Surrounding the piazza are some of Rome's finest five star hotels - the luxurious Grand Hotel (Rome's first luxury hotel), the new but stunning Hotel Exedra.

On the opposite side from the Exedra stands the stunning church, Santa Maria Degli Angeli e dei Martiri. The basilica is actually an adaptation of the remains of the Baths of Diocletian - a work undertaken under the guidance of Michelangelo. The basilica's official page lists pertinent visitor information, event listings and much more. Granted, it does help to read Italian.

Running southwest from the piazza is Via Nazionale... a long and regal boulevard commissioned in the middle of the 19th century to connect Piazza Venezia to Piazza Della Repubblica. The road is lined with a broad mix of shops, from high end shops like Furla, Max Mara, Frette and Intimissimi to more typical Italian stores. You can walk from one end to the other (either uphill or downhill) in a few hours. The shops are reachable from the Piazza Della Repubblica stop or via the buses that run frequently along via Nazionale. I traditionally haven't eaten in the area although the scores of side streets off of Via Nazionale are full of restaurants, trattorie and pizzerie. I'll have a better idea of restaurant recommendations after our next trip to Italy as we'll be staying in one of the aforementioned hotels.

Granted, heading southeast you then have the zone around the main train station in Rome, Termini. Many people are hypnotized by the scores of hotels and reasonable rates near the station. Don't be fooled... I wouldn't stay there. It's not the best area in town and no respectable Roman would recommend it... so, just keep that in mind. Of course, travel to the northwest and you have Via Veneto and a completely different ambiance. Regardless, Piazza Della Repubblica and the neighboring area is worth visiting on a trip to Rome.

Great Bites in Rome

We have some friends who are heading to Rome in the next few months and they'd asked for various recommendations, including where to eat while in Rome. Here are three restaurants that I recommended (and one that just came to mind):

Da Giggetto - This is a Roman institution, located in the old Jewish ghetto in the shadow of the portico D'Ottavia. Great Roman food with some emphasis on Jewish specialities like artichokes. The cacio e pepe is delicious.

La Taverna Degli Amici - I've eaten here over the years... on business trips and during our honeymoon. It's a terribly romantic location - tucked into a small little piazza on the edge of the Jewish ghetto, right next to an old medieval tower. If you can, try to score an outside table. - it may have changed names but it's the same location. A romantic spot.

La Cicala e la Formica - A cute little restaurant located in the Monti area of Rome. Seating is somewhat limited but the food is excellent. Check the menu - if they have dishes with truffles, give them a shot. It's an acquired taste but, once you like truffles, you'll love them. Another place we visited on our honeymoon.

Frontoni - A great tavola calda where you can get delicious pizza (really delicious) made your way "al modo mio", suppli', olive ascolane and other easy-to-eat favorites. We usually meet up my uncle here for the pizza. It's located in Trastevere at Viale Trastevere 52. Next door is a little gelato shop. From there, you can walk deeper into Trastevere.

Surprising Traces of the Past in Italy

There's no need for me to go into the history or background of fascism in Italy during the 20th century. Hundreds of books are available on the topic and I'm no history teacher. When visiting Italy, you'll be surprised to find leftover traces of fascism across the country. Towns like Sabaudia were built from the ground up by the fascist regime and, to this day, are thriving communities. Entire areas of Rome like EUR were built to "show off" Italy's brand of fascism to the world. EUR, in and of itself, is a lovely part of Rome and, despite its background, a thoughtfully planned area.

Fascism, in a sense, gave birth to rationalist architecture with Giuseppe Terragni's Casa Del Fascio . The style is clean and recalls classic architecture, namely ancient Roman architecture. It is clean and simple and, in some ways is similar to art deco and moderne. Near Piazza Bologna and the Via the Nomentana, one can come across several fine examples of residential and institutional rationalist architecture. One of the more famous examples is a monumental apartment building, Case Federici, designed by Mario De Renzi on Via XXI Aprile. The building is not only one of the more notable rationalist designs from the 1930s, it also appeared in the Italian movie, Una Giornata Particolare.

So... where am I going with this? If you keep your eyes peeled, you can see some interesting and often less noticeable, traces of fascism in these buildings. The front of Palazzo Federici, by De Renzi, provides a perfect example.


The faded but clearly legible writing on the photograph is visible when one approaches the building from the main entrance into a large courtyard. The "A" stands for anno or year. The "XI" is clearly the Roman numeral for 11. The "E F" stands for era fascista or, clearly enough, fascist era. If you keep your eyes peeled, you might spot these markings on rationalist style buildings or monuments.

A more surprising example is not only the 55 ft obelisk near the Ponte Milvio but many of the inscriptions and mosaics around the Foro Italico. These are very surpising traces of the past which, rather then being obliterated, are there to remind us to remember history lest we repeat it. The next time you see these markings in Rome, you'll know what they mean.

Humorous Roman Signs

The next time you visit the Campidoglio in Rome and decide to wander over to the old Jewish ghetto, you might do well to keep your hands off of any plants you see along the way.

It's not too hard to find wry or humorous signs and sayings scattered across Rome. One one hand the reality is that graffiti is, sadly, pretty much ubiquitous. Then there are signs like this one on the left, pasted by a frustrated homeowner struggling to content with those who just won't keep their grubby mitts off their prized cactus (note the lovely "cactus-approved" Christmas decorations). Apparently someone kept taking cuttings from this cactus without the owner's permission. In response, the owner posted...

"Chi taglia queste piante devono sanguinare come loro"

Simply put, "Whoever cuts these plants needs to bleed like they do"

Yikes!

Less threatening but funnier than the first is this sign...


"Non e' un cesso per cani, zozzoni"

Loosely translated... "this isn't a bathroom for dogs, pigs!"

Keep your eyes peeled walking around Rome - if you don't read Italian, write down the sign and see if someone can translate it for you. You never know what you'll find...

"Ho deciso di mettermi a dieta!! ...ma ho person solo tanto tempo!!"

"I dediced to go on a diet!! ... but I only lost a lot of time!!"

Avoiding Hotels Near Termini in Rome

Termini train station is an great piece of post-war rationalist architecture (don't worry if you don't know what that is - most people don't know). In fact, if you're a fan of modern architecture, you'll probably want to see it along with other buildings like the Palazzo Del Lavoro and the Palazzo Dei Congressi in EUR. It also reminds me of Eero Saarinene's terminal at Dulles Airport - a modern masterpiece and truly worth appreciating the next time you fly into northern Virginia.

While Termini is great to admire and critical when taking trains to destinations like Florence or Naples, it's not a great area to make your home base in Rome. I see so many people roped into staying around Termini. Why? Admittedly, there is an abundance of hotels (a ton of them) and the prices are reasonable compared to areas like the Spanish Steps or Campo Marzio.

BUT... the area around Termini is not the best in town. How often have you heard of train station neighborhoods as desirable? Yes, there are some notable exceptions - the area surrounding the Bologna train station is not too bad. Termini does not fit that bill, though. While the area is fine in the daytime and there are plenty of restaurants and shops, it's not desirable at night. It's quite seedy and home to homeless and gypsies. While it's not south central LA, it should not be your first choice (or your fourth or fifth, for that matter), particularly the area south of the station.

My advice? Look elsewhere for a hotel room. Even moving just a little further from the station and closer to Piazza Repubblica can get you a very nice hotel. A hotel like The Grand is one of the finest in all of Rome and is just off of the piazza. Ultimately, if you're not sure about a hotel, do some research. Sites like Trip Advisor are filled with reviews tipping off travelers to the seediness around Termini. Here are some examples from three different hotels around the station:

"ONLY stay here if you must. The hotel is one block from the train station, and the area is not very safe. Multiple trash cans were directly outside of the window and became a public toilet. Homeless were digging all night through the trash."

"Plus, the neighborhood seemed quite seedy and dangerous to walk around at night with men congregating at some corners but we also saw plenty of tourists."

"The hotel is closely located to the Termini (main train station), which was our reason for choosing the hotel, but this area is very dirty and seedy and is not one of the choisest neighbourhoods in Rome. If you are looking for a bed to sleep in and not much else, then this hotel will suit you. "

Ultimately, if you're going to have a memorable visit to Rome, it shouldn't be due to your hotel's sketchy neighborhood.

On a totally unrelated note, the more I read about Japanese culture, the more I find it fascinating. I thought you might enjoy this blog entry on an interesting Japanese tradition.

Three Stops in Rome

Rome, as you probably know, is one of my favorite cities in the world. Very few places offer such a vast amount of sites. One would need a lifetime to see everything in this fascinating city. We all know the most famous sites - the Colosseum, the Vatican, the Spanish Steps. You don't need me to clue you in on the obvious. While all those places should be visited, there is so much more to see than the standard tourist stops.

Next time you’re in Rome (whether your first trip or a return trip), try to squeeze in one these three stops while wandering around town. All are easily accessible and are best found by foot:

Piazza Fontanella Borghese – On the other side of the Via Del Corso and just a short walk from the famed shopping streets near the Spanish Steps is Piazza Fontanella Borghese. On the south side of the piazza are several stalls selling antique prints, reproductions, books and other various curiosities. Prints of famous local sights like Piazza Navona or St. Peter’s sell for a premium. For a good value, look for single pages pulled from 17th or 18th century books or other "less desired" prints. Many feature Biblical scenes or architectural drawings from French, Italian or German books. They are quite handsome when framed, inexpensive and make for a unique souvenir or gift. We have several Biblical scenes from the 17th century that we picked up for a song.

Santa Maria Della Concezione – Located on the famed Via Veneto, Santa Maria Della Concezione offers one of the creepiest experiences in Rome. The church itself is small but worth visiting. Yet, located in this capuchin church is a crypt dedicated to the four thousand or so friars who have served the church since the 16th century. Inside the ossuary are thousands upon thousands of bones arranged in arches, columns, ceiling designs and chandeliers. The experience is quite macabre but is truly unforgettable. Be sure to leave a donation with the friar by the door or you will get a dirty look (…and not much else since they’ve taken a vow of silence).


Piazza Margana – I love wandering around the old Jewish ghetto in Rome. The area still looks as it did hundreds of years ago and simply walking in the area will allow you to come across one discovery after another. One of those gems it Piazza Margana, at the end of Via Tor Margana. The piazza, located in the middle of the ghetto, offers a peaceful break from the cars and mopeds of nearby Piazza Venezia. A popular local restaurant, Vinando (called La Taverna Degli Amici the last time we ate there) , is located in the piazza. Call for reservations to reserve a coveted table in the piazza. The romantic setting is incomparable.