A visit to the Maremma area of Tuscany is in our future. The more I dig and research the area, the more I realize I face an impossible task of determining what hill towns to visit while there. Small, medieval burgs perched on tufa cliffs, seaside ports, island castles or fortified villages? How do you pick? Seriously, it's just about ridiculous. Here are three candidates... l'Isola del Giglio, Capalbio and Pitgliano (in Italian)
Hey... looks like my hometown is getting some good and much-needed press from the Financial Times...
Yet all the developers and planners need to do for inspiration is to look around them. Bologna’s most striking architectural feature is one that many visitors to the city may not even notice: approximately 40km of arcades that line the streets of the medieval heart of the city. One of their delightful benefits is to allow the Bolognese to walk through almost the entire old city without getting wet, snowed on or sunburnt. They make the passeggiata, the evening stroll beloved of Italians, possible in all weathers.
The challenge for today’s planners, developers and architects, Ms Gabellini says, will be to learn from that, “to value the existing architecture by inserting new buildings
into the middle of it. It will be like wearing a beautiful old brooch with a new jacket.”
I have to say I was awfully excited about heading to Sicily in September... we would finally visit a part of Italy neither of us had seen and we would be going without relatives. A good plan! We booked our reward tickets, came up with a whole itinerary and made all of our reservations.
Ai Lumi - 5 nigts at Ai Lumi in Trapani. Now, some might ask, why Trapani? Simple... the ferries run very frequently from Trapani to Favignana. If you catch the hydrofoil, you're there in 20 minutes and the hotels cost 1/2 of what they would on the island. Trapani is know for excellent cuisine and it's also close to places like Erice. But Favignana... that's what we were looking forward to visiting. A gorgeous island know by few Italians and pretty much no Americans. It would've been a dream.
Casale Corcella - 2 nights in Scopello. Now, this simple farmhouse not only had an amazing view of the Golfo di Castellamare, it was a nice property, had beautiful rooms and was near the very charming town of Scopello. Everything I had heard about this area was fantastic - beautiful bays in which to swim, small trattorie and the nearby Riserva Dello Zingaro. Scopello is well known for a famous tonnara where one can swim in a gorgeous setting. The town, while tiny, is supposed to be a perfect little place. I was excited about the two days we would spend in this town. Segesta was just around the corner, too.
Casa Ruffino - 1 night in Balestrate at a very highly reviewed B&B. We thought... why stay at a mediocre hotel near the airport when we could stay in another seaside town in a B&B that sounds simply charming. Ahh... another tough one to pass.
Well, conflicts are conflicts and we just won't be able to go in September. In the future, we do have ready-made itinerary all in place. The hotels are selected, the towns are picked out... all we need are new tickets.
Now... that doesn't mean we're out of luck. We will get to go somewhere else...
Many people outside of Italy may not be familiar with the town of L'Aquila outside of the recent news regarding the town's devastation at the hands of an earthquake. My wife and I had a chance to visit the city with some Italian friends back in 2003. For those woh have never been there, here are a handful of shots from that trip...
As I plan our trip to Sicily, the more I read about the island, the more it fascinates me. We will probably end up staying in Trapani as a launching point for Favignana and the Egadi islands and then stay in Scopello for a couple of days and Balestrate on our last night.
There are several islands located off of the coast of Sicily... Salina, one of the isole eoilie, was the location for Giuseppe Tornatore's beautiful Il Postino and this article on its caper festival is excellent. Salina is just 1 1/2 hours away from Sicily and is near other amazing islands like Vulcano and Stromboli.
So we're thinking of taking another beach trip later in the year and, to save some money, I'd like to use miles. Given our last experience with hurricane season, we're going to stay away from the Caribbean, Mexico and the like. Places in the South Pacific are probably off, too. So, that has us thinking about going back to Europe. The question is, where? There are so many options...
How does one choose? When your options are pretty much wide open, it's a lot harder than you might think.
Would a return trip to Greece make sense? Quite possibly...
Stunning mountaintop scenery high above Maspalomas, Gran Canaria
Our November 2005 trip to Venice was a bit chilly - yes, it even snowed - but it confirmed to me that the best time to visit Venice is during some of the colder months. Problem is, the water isn't always cooperative. The acqua alta can put a damper on anyone who wants to wander across San Marco.
Still, there's more to Venice than the San Marco district and, well, let's face it... it's a bit of a gamble. If you can handle the possible risk, then I still say that Venice during a month like November or January is a magical place... cold, foggy and relatively quiet. Tourists crowds are scarce and great deals can be found throughout the city - whether you're after a luxe option or a wonderful little hotel like the Ca' Del Brocchi in Dorsoduro. Finding a gondoliere is an easy task and you can even negotiate a fair rate - something you certainly can't do during the "swampy" summer months when hordes of tourists are qeueing up for a ride.
This scene cracked me up when I fist saw it because it was so Italian. That is, in Italy, everyone has a fascination with cell phones... the country has one incidence of cell phone usage on the globe with articles even noting that adolescents often have multiple cell phones. As early as 1999, there were more cell phones in use in Italy than landlines... similar to cell-phone crazed Finland. It could be because landlines are ridiculously expensive in Italy. When I call my aunt in Rome, she's always in a rush to get off since calls are metered, like traditional cell phone plans. Anyway, watching this scene unfold in Villa Celimontana in April 2008 had us laughing. So normal to Italians but so typical, too. Certainly the children and the pony are unfazed.
Colline Emiliane - Via Degli Avignonesi 22 - A 77 year old restaurant that serves up delicious cuisine from my hometown of Bologna and the region of Emilia Romagna. We visited for lunch with my aunt and a group of friends. Both my wife and I stuck with pasta for a main course and then I nibbled on my friend Gianfranco's beef with mostarda (not the mustard you and I know). All excellent. Located just off of Via dell Quattre Fontane and around the corner from Piazza Barberini. The place is small and we saw people turned away so reservations are recommended. 06 481 7538 or 06 48 02 80 70.
Dagnino - Galleria Esedra, Via V. Emanuele Orlando, 75 - Located inside the small 1950s era Galleria Esedra is Dagnino, a pasticceria and cafe' specializing in cuisine from Sicily. My grandfather used to come here on Sundays to pick up pastries. Anyway, we spent a lot of time here since it was located right across from The Grand Hotel. The desserts - like cassatina siciliana - were to die for. I really recommend the cassatina. You can also order wine, ice cream and more. There are a handful of seats inside but most people hang out in the "outdoor" seating area within the galleria. Depending on your waiter, service can be pleasant or relatively aloof. One of the waiters, Gennaro, pointed us in the right direction to an excellent pizzeria... "da Tito". 06 48 18 660
Trattoria Cadorna dal 1947 - Via Raffaele Cadorna, 12 - This trattoria is located on the back side of Piazza Sallustio, on a street parallel to Via 20 Settembre. This was the first restaurant we visited on our most recent trip to Rome and we found the service to be very friendly. The quickly brought us a high chair and were very helpful with the baby. We started with bresaola and then both ordered heaping portions of pasta. I'll admit that we were jetlagged and quite tired that night but the pasta really hit the spot and was a welcome way to return to Rome. Would gladly return on our next trip. 06 482 7061
La Matriciana - Via del Viminale, 14 - This is one of those classic Roman restaurants like Carbonara or La Capricciosa. The restaurant's specialty is, as you can imagine, bucatini alla matriciana. It's located across the rationalist-style Opera House of Rome. We had a very enjoyable lunch sitting outside on a gorgeous spring day. It was perfect. I started with rucola and tomato salad - very refreshing - and then had the bucatini. They were tasty, even if the sauce wasn't exactly to my expectations of amatriciana. Go figure. The house wine is recommended. 06 488 1775
Each country you visit with a baby teaches you a little bit more about traveling with children. Having traveled to Huatulco with our baby, we had notched Mexico on our belt. Italy was our second international trip and we learned a few things along the way.
Restaurant Conveniences - High chairs are not as rare as one might think... at least not in Rome. We found that probably 80% of restaurants had a high chair. Note: that's high chair, not chairs. The varied in size from normal to rather large and without a safety bar. Still... chances are you might find one. You'll also find local waiters extremely accommodating. Foreign-born waiters did not seem to be as nice or willing to help but we only encountered this at one place, a rather run-of-the-mill tourist stop that I wouldn't recommend. As for changing tables? Not going to happen. We had to change the baby on miniscule bathroom counters, on chairs in the back of a restaurant (thank you to the owners of La Matriciana) and in other random locations (see the picture of my hard at work). Either prepare to let your baby sit in a soiled diaper or be open to creativity.
The Flight - A few simple revelations here. First and foremost, buy your child a seat for the flight. Yes, yes, I know... "but it's expensive!?" AND it's safer - much safer for your baby. Besides, your child will have an easier time sleeping in their seat and you can occasionally have two free hands. If you're worried about lugging a car seat, get yourself one of the items I mentioned in one of my previous entries. We used a Pac Back. Second, if you can, book a bulkhead seat. You'll end up with more legroom, no reclining seats in front of you and, if you're on a big plane, tons of space to play, as you can see...
Packing - Pack more than you need when it comes to basic supplies for the actual journey - diapers, formula, baby food, etc. and have a good stash in your carry-on bag. Better to have too much stuff in transit for your baby than not enough. Let's put it this way - you can't buy diapers or formula in Newark Airport while waiting for your connecting flight. Once you get to your destination, you can go to a local market and stock up. Our baby learned to love Plasmon baby food. Second, bring a couple of new toys for the baby. They'll keep them fascinated. You don't have to spend a mint... just find a couple of $5.00 toys and they'll be happy.
Making the Process Easier - Work as a team. I don't really know how else to put this but have each person focus on certain tasks, split the duties and keep your cool.
At the same time, as we were sitting on the couch, an island I had once considered visiting (and still would like to visit) came to mind. Ponza. Located south of San Felice Circeo in the Lazio region of Italy, Ponza is the largest of the isole Pontine. Easily reachable via ferry, not only is it a stunning island - rocky and gorgeous like a Greek island - it's also full of history. It's the type of island that is well known to Italians but virtually unknown to Americans.
One hotel to look up is the four star, Gran Hotel Chiaia di Luna. Prices, even during high season, are much more reasonable than other beach hotels on European islands. Suites during high season are 225 Euros. A stunning beach is located below the hotel, reachable via a Roman tunnel. It would be my choice if heading to Ponza.
The view from the Aventine
Looking out over Trajan's Makets
Wintertime view towards the Colosseo
My wife and aunt at the cafe'
Close-up of the main villa before the restoration
Date palms by the entrance from Via Nomentana
The basilica of Sant'Agnese Fuori le Mura
Plaques commemorating answered prayers
A modern apartment building off of Via XXI Aprile
L'Accademia Della Guardia Di Finanzia - Typical Fascist-Era Rationalist Architecture
The Mid-Century Modern Jordanian Embassy
Across from Villa Torlonia
From ItalyGuides.it
It might be fair to say that you've never heard of the island of Lampedusa. Located about an 8 hour ferry ride south of Sicily, Lampedusa is technically the southernmost point in Italy. The island is southwest of Malta and is actually closer to Tunisia than the Italian mainland. Still Lampedusa is supposed to be a wonderful island - surrounded by stunning crystalline waters, gorgeous beaches and made up of a rugged landscape.
We have some friends who are heading to Rome in the next few months and they'd asked for various recommendations, including where to eat while in Rome. Here are three restaurants that I recommended (and one that just came to mind):
Da Giggetto - This is a Roman institution, located in the old Jewish ghetto in the shadow of the portico D'Ottavia. Great Roman food with some emphasis on Jewish specialities like artichokes. The cacio e pepe is delicious.
La Taverna Degli Amici - I've eaten here over the years... on business trips and during our honeymoon. It's a terribly romantic location - tucked into a small little piazza on the edge of the Jewish ghetto, right next to an old medieval tower. If you can, try to score an outside table. - it may have changed names but it's the same location. A romantic spot.
La Cicala e la Formica - A cute little restaurant located in the Monti area of Rome. Seating is somewhat limited but the food is excellent. Check the menu - if they have dishes with truffles, give them a shot. It's an acquired taste but, once you like truffles, you'll love them. Another place we visited on our honeymoon.
Frontoni - A great tavola calda where you can get delicious pizza (really delicious) made your way "al modo mio", suppli', olive ascolane and other easy-to-eat favorites. We usually meet up my uncle here for the pizza. It's located in Trastevere at Viale Trastevere 52. Next door is a little gelato shop. From there, you can walk deeper into Trastevere.
My wife found an old itinerary from one of my business trips to Europe. Listed in the itinerary was a hotel that I really enjoyed but couldn't seem to remember its name. Well, I found it so I added a link to the right... Hotel Pierre in Milano. I'll never forget how my Italian colleague said that the hotel was so nice, that Simple Minds would stay there. That cracked me up.
Italians are funny about cold weather... even slightly cool weather. Whenever we visit Italy, we always seem to be flooded with the usual comments from relatives... "aren't you cold?", "don't forget to take a jacket" or "are you going out like that? You're naked!" Yeah... it's just part of life in Italy. Just take a ride on the metro in Rome during a cool but sunny March day and you'll be sure to see people covered head-to-toe with a cornucopia of scarves, wool coats, hats and more. It's enough to make you break into a sweat. Of course, one of the benefits of the cold are the ubiquitous chestnut sellers (to the left) in the centro storico of Rome. Roaster chestnuts are a traditional cold-weather treat and, just like the famous American Christmas song, a favorite holiday delight.
Italians are also good at blaming sickness on mysterious drafts, slight cooling sensations or even the teeniest bit of damp weather. A friend of ours was visiting Houston from Rome... During August, she became sick with a cold. Her reasoning? She stepped in a small puddle of water when she got out of the shower and must have caught a cold. Yes, the cold-weather plague extends beyond the cool months... it seems there's a little hypochondriac in every Italian (at least every one I seem to know).
Apparently, I'm not the only one who has noticed this tendency. David Gross, in his book Fast Company, makes a similar observation about a colleague at the Ducati factory...
Dino, the curator fo the museum, had a terrible fear of the cold. He began each morning by wrapping himself in layers of thermal protection - undershirts, down vests, sweaters - preparing for the daily zip over to the company on an old scooter that would send his multiple pale yellow and ivory silk scarves fluttering. In autumn, he looked like a late-season bumblebee that had miraculously survived a first onslaught of cold, with his black trousers, striped jumper, puff jacket, and his baldness... Even in the office, he kept his guard up, wary of drafty corners, removing a piece of clothing only as the day wore on and the heating system kicked in.
In Bologna that fleeing gust of seemingly innocent air - a draft - could trigger a rash of illnesses ranging from sore throat to even a slipped disk. It all depended on the atmospheric conditions, which Dino could recount like a precise human weather vane: "Attenzione! The wind has died in the hills. The sea is calm. The Pianura is a mass of still air, a breeding ground for disease."
