Latest round of restaurants in Buenos Aires

Well, I suppose I'll park this list here and update it as my memory reminds me of where we ate during our most recent trip to Buenos Aires. Sometimes it's hard to remember where you ate if you don't write it down. I'll eventually add a bit of insight on each place. In the meantime, enjoy a nice picture of gnocchi (or noquis):

Noquies at Parrilla La Gauchita

Kentucky

Il Migliore

Strada

Parrilla La Gauchita

Pizza Calda

La Tolva

Marcelita y Garcia

Natural Deli

Vinos y Sabores

La Cabrera

Del Carmen

El Progreso

Pampa Picante

You know you're in Argentina...

Where else but Argentina can you go to the local zoo and find a hot water dispenser specifically made for mate drinkers? Just bring your thermos, yerba and mate and for a few pesos, you can get some hot water. Just pour, sip and enjoy and you look at the llamas and carpinchos!

Of course, if you're little ones aren't drinking mate yet, why not go to a store in Palermo Viejo and pick up their first little mate set? Comes complete with yerba, bombilla and fun pink or blue mate.

Buenos Aires photography

If you love Buenos Aires like I do, I guarantee you will get buried and lost in this site - Buenos Aires Photographer. So many interesting subjects and shots... from ugly to beautiful, mundane to extraordinary. As for this photo, I took it on a steamy summer Saturday in February 2009. This couple parked themselves in one of the plazas in Palermo Viejo to get some sun. Two things that made it so Argentine for me are the man's slicked back hair and his ever-present bombilla de mate.


Do you get the feeling I want to only post about Buenos Aires? I should go there more often... that's my take.

Bar La Robla and fileatado

Well, I can't speak for the food but I can say that I liked the use of fileatado in their sign...

Bar la Robla

Dirección : Viamonte 1615

Barrio : San Nicolás

(54 11) 4811 4484

Two reasons to visit El Preferido

There are many reasons to visit El Preferido de Palermo in Palermo Soho. Here are two - an ice cold chopp of Quilmes and a picada.

My latest culinary adventures in Buenos Aires

I promised I would write this entry but have slack in following through. So, let's take a look at some of the restaurants I visited on this last trip to Buenos Aires...

Mark's Deli and Coffee House - El Salvador 4701 - This was a two minute walk from Five Cool Rooms... I went here to have a casual lunch and conversation with an Argentine colleague. Good casual fare - large selection of sandwiches (I had one with goat cheese, tomato and apple... really quite good), salads, pastries, coffee, etc. Casual and busy.

Lo De Jesus - Gurruchaga 1406 - Great parrilla in Palermo Viejo with a nice selection of meat dishes but with other specials like pasta and fish. I tried the pacu', a cousin to the piranha and it was simply delicious. Attentive and friendly service and a great atmosphere - upscale environment that isn't too stuffy. Watch out for the bread they bring out with your meal. It can fill you up!? A bit on the pricey side.

At 9:30, the crowd still hasn't arrived at Lo De Jesus

La Cabrera - Cabrera 5099 - An old school parilla with an outstanding selection of meat dishes. Everyone talks about this place and you'll find that you can show up at 9:00 and it will be packed... 9:00... in Buenos Aires. Well, it seems like more than just locals like to go there. So, either make a reservation or be prepared to wait. If you do wait, you'll be treated to outstanding (and large!) cuts of beef at reasonable prices. I ordered a 1/2 portion of bife de chorizo, about 400 gr. It was accompanied by a dozen or so condiments, many of which were delicious. I highly recommend staking out a spot and waiting for the hostess to call your name. Cozy but very busy environment. More food for less money than Lo De Jesus.

Not sure what was better... the meat or the condiments.

Bahia Madero - Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 430 - I had a quick meal in Puerto Madero inbetween meetings. I had originally planned on going to Bice but decided to try a new place (new for me). I like Bahia Madero - it had a reasonably priced menu ejecutive for about 35 pesos that included a drink, main course and coffee or dessert. I wanted something light so I opted for fish - very nice. Great view overlooking Puerto Madero. I would imagine this would be a very romantic spot for dinner.

Coud not have asked for a nice day to eat in Puerto Madero

El Cuartito - Talcahuano 937 - This Tribunales-area pizzeria has been around for over 75 years. I went by for a slow Sunday lunch and I was clearly the only non-local in there. You can opt for a porcion of pizza (slice) or small or large sized pizzas. I ordered a small pizzaiola, an empanada, a glass of red and a bottle of water for under $7 USD. Really really good and just a nice local place. Can't recommend it enough. If you don't have time, grab a slice to go and eat at the counter.

Delicious, filling, cheap and very local - a great combination

Vinos y Sabores - Laprida 1805 - Tucked a few blocks north of Av. Santa Fe, this is a nice wine bar and bistro with a reasonably priced menu ejecutive and a great sidewalk location. I really enjoyed sitting at my shady table on a comfortable summer day. Perfect spot to take a load off and enjoy some coffee or a meal. Right on the border of Barrio Norte and Recoleta.

Vinos y Sabores was a great place for a nice lunch in the shade

Cluny - El Salvador 4618 - I stopped by Cluny for an afternoon coffee and pastry. The coffee was good, the pastry too large and excellent but the service was aloof and dreadfully slow. Yes, it has a wonderful terrace but the waitresses could care less whether you are being taken care of or not. I'm not one to demand much - I'm used to (and prefer) European-style service but the service at Cluny pretty much sucked.

BoBo Hotel & Restaurant - Guatemala 4882 - What can I write about the BoBo that I haven't written before - always an oustanding experience. The service is typically outstanding and the food is to die for. I highly highly recommend the menu' de degustacion... five delicious courses, all accompanied with wine. The price is a little steep for BsAs standards but it is so worth it!

One of five delicious courses at the BoBo

El Preferido de Palermo - Jorge L. Borges 2108 - On the same block as the BoBo is an old school lunch counter style restaurant called El Preferido de Palermo. It's been there since the 1950s and is a great place to grab a quick bite, a picada or a Quilmes. I made the mistake of going here before going to La Cabrera. Still, I really liked it... the owner reigns over his kingdom behind the counter, ringing up customers while waiters scurry about. A local favorite.

A quick picada at El Preferido before heading off to dinner

Speaking of picadas, while I didn't eat there on this trip, I definitely recommend stopping by Wela Pulperia in Buenos Aires Design for a bite to eat. We did this twice on our past trips - perfect place to nibble and get some sun.

Reviewing Five Cool Rooms

Now that I'm back in Houston, let's talk about Five Cool Rooms, my most recent hotel in Buenos Aires. Given that I had a choice where to stay, so long as I stayed within a certain limit, I opted to find a place in Palermo Soho. My preferred hotel, the BoBo, wasn't available so I tried a few different hotels and settled on Five Cool Rooms.

Let's start with the location - everyone talks about the location. It really is ideal... just two blocks east of Plaza Serrano and located in the middle of just about everything - restaurants, boutiques, bars - everything! Just two doors down is another hotel, SoHo All-Suites, as well.

The service was cordial although not "dazzling" like the BoBo. The front desk staff were always willing to help and to provide some insight although I can't say they would really go out of their way. Next to the front desk was the lounge area with a TV, books and cool furniture. Outside were a patio, some chairs and a hammock. A nice area to hang out, particulary on cool comfortable nights. Up two flights of stairs was the breakfast area, terrace and jacuzzi. Breakfast was relatively straightforward but provided everything I needed for a quick stay.

I opted for one of the large rooms (#101 on the ground floor) at $150 USD/night. The room had plenty of space - cool, minimalist furnishings and a reasonable amout of storage space. The bathroom was nice and open with a very large shower but no bathtub (don't really care about that). The bed was very comfortable and the A/C was more than effective - it actually would get pretty cold. Wi-Fi was available pretty much anywhere on the property and I would use my laptop in the lobby area, in my room and on the terrace. I can't speak for the other rooms but would pass the small rooms often and, yes, they were quite small. Spend an extra $20-30/night for a bigger room.


Overall, I was pleased. Given my later experience at the Presidente, Five Cool Rooms was a great hotel and I would definitely recommend it. The location is ideal, the rooms (so long as you upgrade) are reasonable and the overall experience made the expense worthwhile.

New experiences at great eateries in BsAs

I tried a few "new" (new for me) restaurants on my this last trip to Buenos Aires. I'll post reviews later but, off the top of my head, here are the ones I tried...

Lo De Jesus
Mark's
La Cabrera
Bahia Madero
El Cuartito
Vinos y Sabores
Cluny
El Preferido de Palermo

That includes some old school classics like El Cuartito near Tribunales/Retiro and some newer places like Vinos y Sabores in Recoleta. My favorite meal was at the BoBo... not new to me but still deeeelicious! Stay tuned for more. In the meantime, here is a big plate of Pacu' from Lo De Jesus...

Working Around the System

As you know, my flight from Buenos Aires to Houston was canceled. Mechanical problems, they say. Well, apparently they added a new flight today to accommodate those who are currently stuck in Buenos Aires since there's only one flight a day. The new flight leaves at 10:30 and there's a second (normal) flight that leaves at 11:50. All the passengers from yesterday's flight who weren't placed on other airlines are scattered among two hotels - the Presidente (shabby) and the Panamericano (for First Class customers).

Originally, they had told us they (their remise service) would pick us up at 7:00 for the 10:30 flight. I said... I'd rather be picked up at 6:00, knowing that the "crack team" at the airport will be trying to handle two flights. Well, someone else heard me and they asked for 6:00, as well. This morning, when I went down to ask when I had to check out, he said we could stay until they pick us all up at 6:00. All? Us? Sounds like my idea spread to others. What does that mean? I no longer have an advantage of getting ahead of the masses.

So, what am I going to attempt to do? I made a reservation with First Class Transfers to pick me up at my hotel at 5:00. Yes... I know... that will get me to the airport around 4:45 minutes early. Besides, I have to foot the cost - AR$150 - not cheap but it's a good service. Why would I do this? Well, let's think about this...

1. Continental will have the personnel to handle one flight (slowly) but will have to process two flights.

2. Now the immigration tax window will have to be able to process one additional wide-body flight... that's a couple hundred passengers.

3. Once you get through that line, you've got to go through the notoriously slow security line.

Given all that, I have no problem going to the airport early... just so long as tonight isn't cancelled, as well.

We'll see...

On a less-serious note, if you're staying in Palermo Soho, you should make it a point to go off the beaten path to Atipica - located at El Salvador 4510 near Scalabrini Ortiz. It's a great little boutique filled with handmade items from local artists - jewelry, art, housewares and more. The owner runs the Trendy Palermo Viejo blog and is very friendly. Her prices are reasonable and there is a really nice selection of items that you wouldn't normally see in other stores.

Travel + Leisure's New List... and BsAs in sight?

The January issue of Travel + Leisure started arriving in subscribers' mailboxes and includes a list of their top 500 hotels in the world. I can't link to the list, yet, but rest assured it will show up online in a matter of days. As you can imagine, with 500 hotels to choose from, you'll see most of the names you would expect. I ran through a quick search of the list and spotted three that I've frequented... the Hotel Amigo in Brussels, the Grand Hotel in Rome and the Beverly Wilshire in Beverly Hills. All three were no-brainers to make the list. Other "wish list" hotels made the list... places like the Llao Llao in Bariloche, Argentina.

The Famed Llao Llao Hotel near Bariloche

Speaking of Argentina, it looks like a business trip to BsAs is in the works. Our client has preferred rates with the Intercontinental Hotel - a nice place in an unfortunate microcentro location. Given my choice, I'm going to look elsewhere. So long as I can keep our nightly rate at or below the Intercontinental, I'm sure I can swing a place in Palermo Viejo or Recoleta. While I may lean on a well-known boutique hotel like the bobo or Five Cool Rooms, I might try out one of the new boutique hotels that's landed on the BsAs scene... maybe Mine Hotel Boutique? I've read great things about Tailor Made Hotel and 248 Finisterra but the Las Cañitas locations are a bit inconvenient for this particular trip.

We'll see...

Hello Kirchner

Seems to me like porteños have elevated the use of stencils for graffiti to a whole new level. From still-scarred areas of the microcentro to the buzzing streets of Palermo Viejo, you're likely to come across all kinds of random stencils. Many, if not most, are of a political nature, while others are just odd or amusing. This stencil plays Hello Kitty off nicely with (at the time) Nestor Kirchner. Turned out to be a relatively timeless design now that pension-hungry Kristina is in power. The other stencil was located on a bank building in the microcentro - site of some of the fiercest rioting during the Argentine crisis.

Buenos Aires - Dirt Cheap Days are Long Gone...

I love coming across new blogs written by expats living in Argentina. While not "new" per se (they've been there for ten weeks or so), Discover Argentina is fun to read... all about a couple from New York City who moved into a furnished apartment in Palermo. My favorite entries are their "Random Observation" entries... picking up on the little odds and ends of Argentina. Some are about the food...

Empanadas are everywhere! They have empanada speciality stores; they’re delivered by the pizza places; sold in diners, grocery stores, pasta stores, etc. I’ve eaten more empanadas in my time here, than throughout the rest of my life. I initially thought all empanadas were the same, and bought them from the supermarket at least once a week, but then last week we had empanadas from Gourmet Empanada and I realized what I’ve been missing. I know now that I will never be able to eat a supermarket empanada again.

While others are about things we noticed and found particularly funny, as well...

As you walk down the street here, you might notice some cars that have jugs half-filled with some type of liquid sitting on top of the roof. We’ve seen this many times and have finally figured out what it means. (Well, ok, we didn’t actually figure it out, we asked our Spanish tutor, Marco, what it meant.) Ready? It means that the car is for sale. Yep, that’s it. I guess a sign in the window is just too simple. The benefit of the jug though is that it is much more visible than a sign when walking or driving by.

So, that sounds kind of odd but we started spotting those, too, and had to ask a taxi driver what that was all about. This was a car we saw for sale in Palermo Viejo:


Now, while the dollar keeps making big gains against the Euro, the Pound, the Argentine Peso and other currencies, things aren't as cheap as they used to be. More people are starting to notice, too. Inflation in Argentina has been quite heady - causing prices to shoot up. While cheaper that most major cities in the world, the dirt cheap prices of just a few years ago are starting to disappear. In 2006, our favorite BsAs hotel, the Bobo Hotel, used to charge $90/night for their smaller rooms. Today, those rooms will set you back $165/night. Popularity comes with a price, I suppose. The political situation hasn't been stable either - witness my earlier posts on the mess earlier in 2008. Now Cristina has her eyes set on raiding private pensions. Fun stuff... can't say it tempers my enthusiasm to go back but some of the shine has rubbed off.

Getting to know tango and Buenos Aires

One way to start to understand Buenos Aires is to get to know the tango. You'll notice, as I've stated before, that the tango is truly ingrained in the culture - not just in streetside tango shows for tourists but throughout the city.

To know tango in Buenos Aires, you should get to know three names. The first is Carlos Gardel, a 1930s era tango singer who died in a plane crash and is been revered to this day. The second is Astor Piazzola, a tango composer and musician who many feel revolutionized tango. The third, though not Argentine, is Gotan Project, a multinational group from Paris that has modernized tango.

Here is your quick crash course...

Carlos Gardel

Astor Piazzola

Gotan Project

What to Bring Home from BsAs

I wanted to start the day by including a quick post on shopping in Buenos Aires. No, not the type of shopping you might do along Florida or in some of the great shopping centers like Alto Palermo... rather, the fun and unique things you can find at some of the local markets that take place in Buenos Aires.

I'll keep this one short and simple... when heading to places like the antiques market at San Telmo, the weekend fair in Plaza Cortazar or the Feria Hippy in front of the Recolata Cemetery, here are the kinds of things to look for:

Jewelry - lots of handmade jewelry. From handblown glass penants and rings to intricate silver wire designs, you can find all types of inexpensive options. We found several great sellers at the weekend market in Recoleta and on Plaza Cortazar. I'm sure prices have gone up since our last trip but you'll still find them to be a steal.


Boxes - Boxes? Yes... what kind of boxes? Well, you have wood boxes with hammered metal decoration inlaid with precious stones, boxes carved from indigenous hardwoods and boxes with enameled bronze tops with indian-themed designs.


Wood - Speaking of wood, look for wood trays and serving platters used for traditional Argentine picadas (like the one below). Most are made out of gorgeous South American hardwoods. Palo santo wood is also used for greenish-tinted nativity scenes carved by indigenous tribes.


Leather - Well, not just any leather. Anyone can tell you about buying leather in Argentina. Be on the lookout for carpincho - a large water-loving rodent (below at the Buenos Aires zoo). Doesn't sound like what you have in mind? Well, get your hands on some carpincho leather and you'll see why it's worth seeking out.


Mate - Mate applies not only to the tea but also to the container used for drinking and sharing this ubiquitous potion. Options range from the basic mate to expensive silver masterpieces.


Gaucho souvenirs - Stirrups, facons, boleadoras, belts... the San Telmo antiques fare is a good place to look for gaucho gear. Some stores around BsAs also specialize in traditional items from around the country. Some are new while others are antiques or... "antiques".

A colonial day trip from BsAs

Yes, it's true... I have Buenos Aires on the brain. I can't help it - I'm really very excited to be going back next year. There's just something about BsAs that has me ensnared. Yes, despite being robbed at gunpoint and nearly tied up two years ago, Buenos Aires has me in its spell. It's that reason that I've been thinking about possible day trips that we can take the next time we've there.

Last year, we went to Bariloche for three nights - it was a great, albeit rainy, trip. I've been meaning to post about that trip and eventually will. The previous year, we went to the Estancia Santa Susana. Little did we realize when we went there that it was owned by my friend's family. Small small world.

Next year, I'm really leaning towards taking the Buquebus (the ferry) across the Rio Plata to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay. While I'd like to check out Montevideo, I've heard the day trip to Colonia is worthwhile. The Buenos Aires Argenita Guide Blog has a great entry on visiting Colonia - worth checking out the next time you head to BsAs. The historic quarter has been named a UNESCO World Heritage site. Much more detail on Colonia can be found in the UNESCO nomination.

Why Colonia? Apparently the historic quarter of the town is well-preseved with many 17th, 18th and 19th century buildings. Cobblestone streets and a colonial feel make the town a welcome break from the hustle and bustle of BA. The town was actually a Portuguese settlement but traded hands between the Spanish and the Portuguese until the birth of modern-day Uruguay. The day trip is only 50 minutes each way with a high speed ferry and is easily made with small children.

Pizzeria Guerrin, La Giralda and it's Spanish Cousin

One can't help but find great Italian food and pizza in Buenos Aires. Given that something like 2/3 of Argentines can trace their lineage back to Italy, it's no surprise.

The very first meal we ever had in Buenos Aires came about two hours after landing at Ezeiza. We sat down after 10:00 PM at Pizzeria Guerrin at 1368 Corrientes, a fifteen minute walk from our hotel in the microcentro. What we found was a spacious pizzeria brimming with people, all enjoying their Argentine-style pizza with a bottle of Quilmes or Cristal. It's the kind of place that leaves a lasting impression of Buenos Aires and one that I would recommend as a "must" when visiting BsAs. Head to the top floor and the large dining room for the best spots. It's noisy and crowded but that's part of the experience. The menu is massive so you'll have plenty of traditional options like quattro stagioni or typical Argentine pizzas like fugazzetta.

Just down the road on Corrientes is another "must" - La Giralda. Named after the famed tower in Seville, La Giralda is known partially for its historic pedigree but mostly for its chocolate and churros. While not as breathtaking as the churros found at Madrid's famed San Ginés, the larger version (on the left) found at La Giralda are delicious and sought out by locals and tourists alike. Our waiter got a real kick out of hearing that we had visited La Giralda in Spain, gradually telling all his coworkers and the owner. Anyway, La Giralda is one of those classic places like Cafe Tortoni where visiting will not only provide great food but a glimpse of old world Buenos Aires.

As mentioned, if you're in Madrid, you should definitely check out San Ginés. The famous chocolate and churros shop is located at Pasadizo de San Ginés 5, a side street off of Arenal, not far from Plaza Mayor. It's smack dab in the middle of everything but not always the easiest to find. Once you do make it, you'll find an international and local clientele scrambling for the few small tables to savor the deliciously rich chocolate with their thin churros. I don't think we've ever made it to Madrid without stopping by San Ginés. Here is my wife (below) enjoying a tasty late night meal with my cousins. These delectable delights make a great addition to a night of tapeando.

A Change of Plans

Well well... it looks like it's...

Goodbye to...

...and Hello to...

We made a change of plans. We decided to pass on the exorbitant Euro and head towards a friendly peso.

Here is an older but excellent article on the continued resurgence of Buenos Aires called Buenos Aires in Bloom, from Travel + Leisure.

More BA Hotel Options

Looking for more insight on various hip haunts in Buenos Aires? Here are a few articles to make the decision even harder...

• Five Best: Hip Hotels in Buenos Aires - The Independent
• What's Nuevo in Buenos Aires - Frommer's Budget Travel
• The Thinker's Guide to Staying in Buenos Aires, Part II - Hotel Chatter.com

Oh yeah... and how could I forget 248 Finisterra? Most of the reviews I've read are very favorable, despite a "good" review from the New York Times. The hotel is located in Las Canitas. While there's a lot to like about the hotel, I have to wonder if the lively nighttime scene is right for our little one.

I'm not making it easier on myself.

U-Turn to Buenos Aires?

Have I recently mentioned that the Dollar's fall versus the Euro has been giving us heartburn? Oh yeah... that was my last post. Well, it's been giving me so much heartburn that I'm seriously reconsiding our trip to Amsterdam and Rome. So much so that I'm almost certain we're going to make our way back to Buenos Aires.

The Dollar has hung tight against the Argentine Peso - pretty much remaining unchanged during all the recent currency fluctuations. While Argentine has become more expensive as of late, it is still a bargain compared to most European cities. Hotel rates have been on the rise but food, shopping and transportation are still very affordable.

On our last trip, we stayed at the amazing Bobo Hotel, consistently rated the #1 hotel in Buenos Aires on Trip Advisor (rated the "Best Hidden Gem" in South America). That's no surprise - the level of service, the location, the rooms and the entire experience make the Bobo one of my highest recommendations. BUT... while the Bobo is great for a couple, most (if not all) of their rooms tend to fall short for a couple with a child. That would be us. Their largest room, the Argentine Suite (left), unfortunately isn't available for a possible stay... nor are larger rooms like the Minimalist. That rules out the Bobo for any possible stays... for now, anyway.

So, now we're looking at other places. During our first trip to Argentina, we stayed at the NH Latino - a nice busines-class hotel but we would rather not stay in the Microcentro with our son. It's just not a good walking area with a child. So, we've started searching some other options. Unfortunately, Five Cool Rooms is not available - it's completely booked out. We had our eyes set on the separate apartment.

Now I'm shooting out e-mails to a few options to see what might be available and then ultimately decide where we want to stay. Some of the hotels we're considering are:

The Cocker - Located about three blocks south of Plaza Dorrego, this B&B is owned by a British couple. Reviews are terrific and even the largest room will run you only $85/night. The con? No elevator - could potentially be an issue. This one's tempting and it did just make Conde' Nast Hot List for 2007.

Costa Petit Hotel - Speaking of the hot list, this hotel made the list, as well. Something about this hotel seems really appealing and junior suites (the entire hotel has four rooms) are still an affordable $150 USD a night. Located on the edge of Palermo Viejo.

Home Hotel - Located in the Palermo "Hollywood" area of Palermo Viejo, this hotel offers a sleek and modern alternative. The largest suites are quite expensive, particularly the loft which rents for a lofty $300+ USD a night. The hotel has an on-site spa and a nice pool and garden area.

Hotel Design CE - This is a great looking hotel - rooms and suites with a very slick design-oriented theme. They look to have incredible views although I can't quite put my finger on the location... on the south edge of Recoleta? I can't tell... the location may not work for us.

Soho All-Design Suites - Great Palermo Viejo location and all suites. The smallest ones, the Superior Suites, are them most affordable at $150 USD/night yet are still a spacious 410 sq. ft. All have equipped kitchens, wi-fi and room rates include a breakfast buffet. Unfortunately, you can't check availability online without putting in your credit card information.

I know I know... (and my beloved BA)

Yes, it's true... my posts have kind of stalled out lately. Our little traveler showed up a bit early so we're dealing with the adjustment phase. I'll pick back up soon, particularly since we'll be planning a trip to Italy in the spring. In the meantime, here are a handful of my favorite "detail" pictures from a May 2006 trip to Buenos Aires (Argentina... how I miss you so!)