Drowning in a Sea of Travel Guides for Rome

Finding a good travel guide can be a daunting task, particularly when you're planning on visiting a popular destination like London, Paris or Rome. Frommers, Fodor's, Rick Steve's, Insight Guides, AAA, Knopf, Michelin, Eyewitness Guides, Moon, Let's Go, Lonely Planet, Time Out, Baedeker... the list goes on and on. It's hard to make heads or tails from one guide to another.

Well, when it comes to Rome, I've gone through a few... having visited Rome close to ten times in the past 12-13 years, it's good to stay on top of what's new in town, new museums, etc. With so many to choose from, how do you know where to start? To begin with, I'm not a fan of Frommer's or Fodor's. Yes, they serve their purpose but, for me, I like to see some pictures. Show me what I'll be looking at - give me some visual perspective. Both guides typically fall short although I like their online presence. For my money, there are two that I have found particularly useful for Rome.

If you can find one - and you can find used ones on Amazon.com - one of the best guides out there is published by the Touring Club Italiano. Now, there may be current ones but the one I have is this older version. Well-written, good information, concise and it often lists places that most guides overlook. I really like this one. Of course, if you read Italian, you can pick up an Italian version but I know that only so many people have this luxury. If you're in Rome, check out the local Feltrinelli or Arnoldo Mondadori and you might find some Italian guides translated in English that will be worth your while. You never know...

Ever since buying my first Time Out guide for a trip to Buenos Aires, I've been nothing but impressed by Time Out's informative guides. Good insight on neighborhoods, hotels in all classes, restaurants and much more. They just work well and the one for Rome is no different. Recently published version also include Time Out Rome: Eating & Drinking Guide (wish I had a copy of this handy) and the Time Out Shortlist Rome. If the Eating & Drinking Guide is anything like the Cheap Eats in London guide, I would imagine it is priceless.

What are some of your favorites? Are you partial to funky little guides like the Wallpaper City Guide to Rome, big standards like the Eyewitness Guide to Rome or specialized guides like The Civilized Shopper's Guide to Rome? (my wife has this one... it's a great little pocket guide)

Travel Plans... what travel plans?

It's no secret that some consider me a bit crazy... yes, crazy in a variety of ways (sure, I'm kind of quirky) but definitely crazy for my family. I love my wife and my big boy and have found that as a new dad, my train of thinking has changed a bit, as well. Part of that has been the desire to protect them and ensure that I take care of their well-being. Of course, that can be manifested in a variety of ways. The most recent way had to do with our forthcoming trip to Argentina... or should I say, our recently cancelled trip to Argentina.

Now, wait a minute... didn't I recently cancel a trip to Rome to go to Argentina? Yes, I sure did. So, here's the crazy part... I've canceled our trip to Argentina to go to... well, Rome!? The reason, for me, is simple. The political situation in Argentina is starting to grow a bit dicey for me.
I might find it tolerable if I was traveling with just my wife but bringing a baby into the picture changes things.

You may have seen recent new stories about the 21 day protests that took place when Cristina Kirchner's government decided to increase taxes on various agricultural products. 21 days of largely peaceful protests across Argentina but protests and blockades that nonetheless led to food shortages in many markets in cities like Buenos Aires. Food shortages... OK, not good with a baby. Now, as I mentioned, the protests were largely peaceful, save for the ones attended by a certain Luis D'Elia who has become a kind of a two-fisted mouthpiece for the government. D'Elia is seen as a thug and the fact that he has been showing up and disrupting protests is not good. This was particularly the case the day after he was captured by the media punching a demonstrator during a rally. One day after breaking up a protest, there he was, standing next to Kirchner during a speech in which she denounced the protests taking place.

On April 2nd, the farmers decided to take a bit of a cooling off period for 30 days - a time when they could work with the government to negotiate some kind of a resolution. To date, the government has mostly thumbed their nose at the farmers and has now started suppressing free speech, going after the media (even government-friendly papers) and even confiscating truckloads of cattle from farmers. It seems like some of Argentina's ugly history is starting to resurface. Pity that a country with so so much going for it, with so many resources and wonderful people always gets stuck with terrible governments (albeit voted in by the people).

If you ask me, what's to say that the whole issue won't start back up? I'm not an alarmist but I'd rather go somewhere where I don't have to carry anxiety about the well-being of my family. Call me a chicken little... whatever... I'd just as soon not have to think about it and just head back to Italy. Yes, I'll have to suck it up and sell a kidney to pay for everything with Euros but, at the end of the day, I'll pick security and peace of mind over lower prices. Argentina will always be there and we will go back... just not in the coming months. Besides, while Italy has its own set of issues, it doesn't have this set of issues.

For us, it's back to Rome. In the meantime, read A Texan in Argentina's blog for more insight on the current situation...

Laying Our Heads in Greece

In no way is our trip to Greece around the corner... far from it. Still, I can't help but thinking about the trip and longing for a few days on a Greek Island. That being said, while our trip is far away, our hotels are all in place. Here are the hotels we picked and why...

The Athens Gate Hotel

Our first night in Greece will be spent at the Athens Gate, just around the corner from Plaka, in the shadow of the Acropolis and next to the Temple of Zeus. Simply put, great location, "reasonable" rates for what you get and it's in line with our style and taste.

Bellonias Villas on Kamari Beach

Following our flight to Santorini, rather than heading straight for the caldera to stay somewhere like Oia or Imerovigli, we'll be staying at the beach at the Bellonias Villas in Kamari Beach. Located right on the black sand beach, Bellonias Villas receives great reviews and looks right up our alley - relaxing and spacious. We really wanted to be on the beach for the majority of our time in Santorini. We can always visit the caldera but, when we look at what is important to us, sitting by a pool and enjoying beachtime ranks high with us.

The Golden Sunset Villas

Now granted, you can't visit Santorini and not spend at least some time on the caldera so we decided to spend one night at the Golden Sunset Villas. Everything we've read said that Oia was the place to be - quaintest town on the caldera and the best sunsets. So, we picked the Golden Sunset Villas due to the nice rooms, the owner's reputation and it's privileged position in Oia. If we feel like more time in the water, we can always take the stairs down to Ammoudi beach.

Sofitel Athens Airport

A 6:40 AM flight pretty much guarantees a strong yearning to stay by the airport. So, to make it easier on ourselves, we'll be staying at the Sofitel Athens Airport. Not cheap but worth the price. We'll also have easy access to a train that can take us straight into Athens for the evening.

Hip Haunts in Palm Springs

One of the best reasons to visit Palm Springs is to take in the overwhelming amount of great architecture. From the early work of Lloyd Wright and Richard Neutra to the countless Palmer & Krisel-designed houses, there's more than enough to see over several trips.

If architecture is on your mind, then you should make it a point to stay in an well-designed hotel, right? We've stayed in three different hotels in Palm Springs and toured two others.

Desert Star Bungalows - The bungalows were known as the Desert Star Inn the three times we stayed there. When Steve and Misako Samiof sold the hotel to move to Costa Rica, a new owner gave the hotel a fresh facelift and raised rates a bit. Still, they're in a tranquil neighborhood and each bungalow is nicely furnished with period pieces. Our recommendation? Stay in Bungalow Number 5.

The pool at the Desert Star

Villa Royale - Of all the hotels listed in this post, the Villa Royale is the only hotel that doesn't have a mid-century pedigree. It's a 1930's Mediterranean-style hotel but it oozes charm and typified Palm Springs before it's 1950s heyday.

Orbit In / Hideaway - What a great pair of hotels. The Orbit In really perfected what a Palm Springs mid-century hotel should look like. Great furnishings in the rooms, a very cool pool scene and evening cocktails. If you can get past the sticker shock, the Orbit In is a great bet. Slightly more affordable but equally hip is the nearby Hideaway.

The Orbit In - Pricey but Worth it!

Caliente Tropics - A 1964 tiki-themed hotel that is better for families or lower key stays in Palm Springs. Not as hip as the Orbit In or charming as the Villa Royale, the Caliente Tropics has its own vibe. If you're into tiki and polynesian style architecture, this is where you will want to stay.

Polynesian Style at the Caliente Tropics

Now... there are other mid-century hotels in town and if you don't like the choices I've listed, these might do the trick for you.

• Del Marcos Hotel - 1947 hotel designed by William F. Cody
• Horizon Hotel - 1952 hotel also designed by Cody and just restored
• Movie Colony Hotel - Albert Frey-designed gem from 1935
• Ballantine's Original Hotel - Once a sister hotel to the Movie Colony - similar in style
• Le Parker Meridien Palm Springs - Glammed out resort once owned by Gene Autry and Merv Griffin. Jonathan Adler design.
• Hope Springs Resort - Former sister hotel to the Desert Star - Cool spot in Desert Hot Springs.
• Desert Hot Springs Motel - John Lautner masterpiece from 1947
• Miracle Manor Retreat - Spa-themed hotel in Desert Hot Springs
• Sagewater Spa - Another spa in Desert Hot Springs
• A Place in the Sun Hotel - 1950 hotel designed for the movie's production crew

How's that for choices?

Some Sweet Argentine Delicacies

Happy Easter everyone... we had a nice time enjoying some splendid Houston weather. One of the delicacies we also enjoyed this Easter Sunday was a nice portion of alfajores from Asturias Bakery in Houston. Located on Dairy Ashford, just north of the Westpark Tollway, Asturias is a tiny but wonderfully authentic Argetine bakery. We picked up not only two varieties of alfajores but also some other delicious pastries. Outside the strip center bakery are a few tables, typically taken by Spanish speaking clientele enjoying their cortados. Stop by Asturias and pick up some delicacies for your next get-together or just to satisfy your sweet tooth.

If you're not in the neighborhood, you can get your Argentine fix at either Gianotti's at 6539 Bissonnet or the Original Marini's Empanadas Houston at 10001 Westheimer (in the Carillon) or 3522 S. Mason Road in Katy 0r Manena's Pastry Shop and Deli at 11018 Westheimer.

Our First (and not last) Visit to Huatulco

It seems like my computer problems are behind me and I can get back on task - finally!? Hardware problems quickly make you realize how completely dependent we are on technology. Kind of sad, really. Then again, it's technology that allows me to post on a blog like this.

We spent four days and three nights in Huatulco and absolutely loved it - what a refreshing change from Cancun. So laid back, so remote and really gorgeous. It was our first trip there and we would gladly go back. The people were great, the weather was ideal and the water was just pefect!

The Las Brisas Huatulco, seen below, was sprawling and offered plenty to keep us busy, particularly since we were taking a test run with the baby. As you can see from the picture, the 50 acre resort is broken up into four pueblos - each one with a name like mar or estrellas. We were located in Pueblo Mar, situated on the far left of the photo. Since everything is relatively spread apart, regular golf carts shuttle hotel guests around the resort. Foot paths also allow you to get around pretty easily although the resort is rather hilly. It didn't bother us.

Las Brisas Huatulco, as seen from our flight into Huatulco

The Pueblo Mar has quite a few suites with spacious terraces - highly recommended. In fact, I would spend the extra money for a room with a terrace - makes all the difference! The views over Tangolunda Bay were stunning, particularly at sunrise and sunset. Rooms, whether renovated or not, tend to have white themes with marble floors. Bathrooms are roomy with double sinks and a big shower.

Sunrise over Tangolunda Bay with the Sierra Madres in the background

The resort has four beaches that can only be accessed from within the resort. The snorkeling beach, seen below. was right below our puelbo. Just a few feet from shore is a nice coral reef with an overwhelming abundance of sea life... all sorts of tropical fish. Guests commented on spotting turtles, rays and even an octopus. The variety is amazing. Looking at the photo, you can see the resort's larger beach (below the pool and restaurant area) just beyond the first set of rocks. An activities beach offers various watersports and a "secret" beach offers a quiet little cover that, while really nice, is not completely secret - not when it's on the resort map.

The clear waters of the Snorkeling Beach

From the Snorkeling Beach, you can pass the resort's Mexican restaurant and follow a foot-path ot the main beach. Here you will find a bar and a large lawn area. Above the lawn area is the resort's main restaurant as well as other restaurants like Kasbah (Moroccan). The main restaurant offers decent buffet food - mostly used by people on the all-inclusive plan. Depending on the number of nights of your stay, you will receive a certain amount of a la carte dinners, as well.

Passing the main beach to head to the pool area

Most visitors to Huatulco head off the resort to either La Crucecita or Santa Cruz. On Sunday, we took a taxi to La Crucecita for lunch. Quaint little town - there were very few tourists and mostly locals. We found a friendly vibe and a picturesque little town with a charming main square. The food we ate was excellent!

Traditional Oaxacan Cheese.... mmmm!

Given that Huatulco is waaay down south in Mexico, the weather can get awfully warm. We didn't find it too humid (what Houstonian would?) but the temperature did seem a little warm for our baby boy. The main square offers some a nice break from the ever-present sun.

Relaxing at the Plaza Principal

We wandered around for about an hour, checking out shops and the local market. There were quite a few restaurants and a handful of small hotels. Locals were busy going about their day.

Fresh mango for sales in La Crucecita

Overall, we had a great time. There's so much to do in Huatulco but, since we were with the baby, we weren't able to really venture out. That's why we picked Las Brisas - it had everything we needed. Next time, we'll definitely check out the remote beaches, go see some whales and probably go surfing. This was a great start and, as you can see, led to smiles all around :)

A Happy Family!

Computer problems galore

I haven't disappeared... I'm just having all kinds of hardware issues. That's a real pain since I want to post an update on our most recent trip to Huatulco. It was outstanding - really liked it! Anyway, my new laptop is having keyboard issues which forces me to use my old laptop which doesn't want to stay connected to the wireless network. So, until a new keyboard arrives, I'm kind of hosed.

BUT... I won't leave you empty handed - I thought the following article on Rome's subway expansion from Travel and Leisure was fascinating. It paints a good picture of the challenges required to expand the subway system in a 2,500 year old city.